Textile Notes

Textile blog on Textile, Clothing and Fashion Resource

Textile Notes

Textile blog on Textile, Clothing and Fashion Resource

How to Setup Machine Layout for Basic Woven Shirt in Garments Industry

The shirt has become one of the most common and popular items of menswear, though women also do not lag behind in making use of them. There are varieties of shirt design. Some are formal and basic white; others are casual types and may incorporate unique design features. Shirts have become the most popular outer wear in the hot & humid countries. Cold countries find them as common apparel worn under a coat or jacket. It should be noted here that dress shirts are shirts that enable the use of a necktie. Here, I am presenting how to set up a Machine Layout for a Basic Woven Shirt in the Garments Industry.

How to Setup Machine Layout for Basic Woven Shirt in Garments Industry
Different Parts of a Basic Shirt:

Basic shirts comprise the following major parts:

  1. Collar (One piece collar, Two piece bounded collar, Multi piece collar etc.),
  2. Cuffs (Squared, rounded, pointed, notched, etc.
  3. Two full sleeves,
  4. Left front with one pocket and buttonhole stand (Top center of front placket),
  5. Right front incorporating button stand,
  6. Yoke (One piece single yoke, two piece double yoke, etc.
  7. Back part,
  8. Armhole,
  9. Bottom hem,
  10. Sleeve placket,
  11. Label.

Woven Shirt Sewing Production Line Machine Layout in the Apparel Industry:

The basic woven shirt is very common in the garments industry. Machine layout plan is always a key factor for higher production. If the total plan is executed perfectly, then it will be easy for the production team to meet the shipment date without any hassle. As its importance, this article has presented a well-tested Setup Machine Layout for Basic Woven shirts, formal shirts, casual shirts, or basic shirts.

Setup Machine Layout for Basic Woven Shirt in Garments Industry:

We will make calculations for the body and collar-cuffs-sleeves separately @150pc per hour. Body process operations are shown here. Processes are allocated to operators so as to make a layout for body processes. All the major parts are prepared separately & later assembled together to form a shirt. The process flow diagram of apparel breakdown and their assembly is shown in below:

Machine Layout Plan for Shirt Body:

SL No.Name of OperationsMachine RequiredStandard TimeOperator Allocation
01Attach top center to left front4-ndl double chain stitch machine24”Operator-1
02Hem pocket mouth1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer12”Operator-2,3
03Fold pocketManual42”Operator-4,5
04Attach pocket1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer40”Operator-2,3
05Hem right front button stand1-ndl lock stitch with hemmer folder24”Operator-6
06Cut & fold labelLabel cutting & folding machine3”Operator-7
07Attach label to under yoke1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer16”Operator-7
08Back yoke attach sewing1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer24”Operator-8
09Back yoke top stitch1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer19”Operator-9
10Shoulder join1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer46”Operator-10, 11
11Top stitch on shoulder join1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer24”Operator-12
12Attach sleeves2-ndl 5-thread safety stitcher48”Operator-13, 14
13Side seam2-ndl feed of the arm machine46”Operator-15, 16
14Collar attach sew1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer40”Operator-17, 18
15Collar attach stitch1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer40”Operator-19, 20
16Hem body bottom1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer with hemmer foot24”Operator-21
17Attach cuffs1-ndl lock stitch with cuff folder48”Operator-22, 23
18Button sewingButton sewing machine38”Operator-24, 25
19Buttonhole sewingButtonhole sewing machine36”Operator-26, 27
Total standard time for body processes594”

Average Process Time Calculation Method:

Average process time,
= (594/19)
= 31.26”

Calculation of BPT, UCL, LCL, Organization Efficiency & Production Target Per Hour:

Production target per hour with 27 operators,
= {(27×3600×0.85)/594}
= 139pcs per hour

Again,
Bottleneck time= 26 second,

So,
Production per hour,
= (3600/26)
= 138pcs per hour.

Now,

Basic pitch time (BPT) is,
= (594/27)
= 22”

Again,
Upper control limit (UCL) is,
= (22”/0.85)
= 25.88”

Again,
Lower control limit (LCL) is,
= {2 × (BPT-UCL)}
= (44-25.88”)
= 18.12”

Now,
Organization efficiency is,
= (BPT/Bottleneck time)
= {(22”/26”) × 100}
= 84.66%

Again,

Direct productivity is,
= (138/27)
= 5.11 pcs per operator per hour


Machine Lay Out Plan for Shirt Collar, Cuffs, and Sleeves:

SL No.Name of OperationsMachine RequiredStandard TimeOperator Allocation
Collar Processes
Fp-1Fuse interliningFusing press6”Operator-Fp-1
Clr-2Sew collar1-ndl lock stitch with Sewing thread trimmer24”Operator-1
Clr-3Cut collar tip & turnManual22”Operator-2
Clr-4Form collarCollar forming machine20”Operator-3
Clr-5Press collarManual20”Operator-4
Clr-6Top stitch collar1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer16”Operator-5
Clr-7Sew collar bottom1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer8”Operator-5
Clr-8Trim collar bottomCollar contour trimmer6”Operator-6
Fp-1Fuse interlining to bandFusing press6”Operator-Fp-1
Clr-9Feel or roll band1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer18”Operator-6
Clr-10Collar band attach sewing1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer24”Operator-7
Clr-11Turn bandManual10”Operator-8
Clr-12Collar band attach stitch1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer18”Operator-9
Clr-13Cut band bottomOver lock machine6vOperator-9
Clr-14Mark 3-point on collarManual12”Operator-8
Cuff Processes
Fp-1Fuse interliningFusing press12”Operator-Fp-1
Cf-2Fell or roll cuff1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer18”Operator-10, 11
Cf-3Sew or run stitch cuffs1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer30”Operator-10, 11
Cf-4Fold insideIron or vacuum board8”Operator-12
Cf-5Turn cuffsManual or iron12”Operator-12
Cf-6Form cuffsCuff forming machine24”Operator-13
Cf-7Top stitch cuffs1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer18”Operator-14
Cf-8Cuff pair matchManual6”Operator-15
Sleeve Processes
Slv-1Sew under placket to sleeve1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer18”Operator-15
Slv-2Fold upper placketManual24”Operator-16
Slv-3Attach sleeve placket1-ndl lock stitch with thread trimmer36”Operator-17, 18
Total standard time for collar, cuff & sleeves422”

Average Process Time Calculation Method:

Average process time,
= (422/24)
= 17.58”

Calculation of BPT, UCL, LCL, Organization Efficiency & Production Target Per Hour:

Production target per hour with 19 operators,
= {(19×3600×0.85)/422}
= 143pcs per hour

Again,

Bottleneck time= 24 seconds,

So,

Production per hour is,
= (3600/24)
= 150pcs per hour

Now,

Basic pitch time (BPT) is,
= (422/19)
= 22.21”

Again,
Upper control limit (UCL) is,
= (22.21”/0.85)
= 26.13”

Again,
Lower control limit (LCL) is,
= {2 × (BPT-UCL)}
= (44.42-26.13”)
= 18.29”

Now,

Organization efficiency is,
= (BPT/Bottleneck time)
= {(22.21”/24”) × 100}
= 97.66%

Again,

Direct productivity is,
= (150/18)
= 8.33 pcs per operator per hour.

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