What is a raw edge?#
A raw edge is a cut edge of fabric that should be finished (turned in, bound, faced or overlocked) but is left exposed. It can show on the face of the garment, for example at a double-turned hem, or inside at a seam where the overlock missed the edge.
Raw edges look untidy, fray in washing and can develop into open seams. Visible raw edges on the outside of a garment are usually treated as major defects.
What it looks like#
- Frayed yarns sticking out of a hem fold or binding.
- A section of hem where the fold did not enclose the cut edge.
- Inside seams where the overlock stitch did not cover the edge.
- A binding or facing that does not cover the edge at curves.
Where it occurs#
- Double-turned hems on shirts, blouses and woven bottoms.
- Bound necklines and armholes on knits.
- Curved hems such as shirt tails.
- Seam allowances on woven garments neatened with overlock.
Likely causes#
A raw edge happens when the fabric edge does not reach, or slips out of, the fold or stitch meant to enclose it. The edge may be too short (narrow allowance, uneven cutting), the folder may not be set for the fabric, or the operator may not feed the edge fully.
Machine-related causes#
- Folder or binder settings not suited to the fabric thickness or width.
- Overlock knife blunt or set so that it does not trim the edge cleanly.
- Feed that makes the edge wander away from the guide.
Material-related causes#
- Fraying fabrics, which lose yarns from the edge during handling.
- Binding width variation, so narrow sections do not cover the edge.
- Thick or springy fabrics that do not stay in the fold.
Operator and process-related causes#
- Loading: edge not fully inside the folder at the start.
- Curves handled too fast.
- Pulling the fabric so the edge slips out of the fold.
Method-related causes#
- Hem allowance too narrow in the pattern.
- Cutting inaccuracy leaving short allowances on some panels.
- Wrong folder type for curved edges.
How to confirm the cause#
- Measure the hem allowance on cut panels and on the pattern.
- Check the folder or binder setting and width against the fabric.
- Watch the operation at starts and curves.
- Measure binding width along the roll.
- Look at where raw edges appear: always at the start (loading), always on curves (method), or random (cutting or material).
Immediate containment#
- Check garments from the operation since the last good check.
- Repair raw edges by resewing where the edge can be enclosed cleanly.
- Separate garments that cannot be repaired without visible damage.
Corrective action#
| Cause | Corrective action |
|---|---|
| Folder setting | Adjust or change the folder for the fabric |
| Knife | Sharpen or replace; set position |
| Narrow allowance | Correct the pattern; check cutting accuracy |
| Binding width | Replace binding; tighten width specification |
| Operator loading | Retrain on loading and curves |
Preventive action#
- Folder and attachment settings recorded by style and fabric.
- Allowance checks at pattern approval for fraying fabrics.
- Binding width checks on receipt.
- Inline checks of hems and bound edges.
Inspection notes#
- Check hems and bound edges on the face and inside.
- Look closely at curves and hem starts and ends.
- Visible raw edges on the face are usually major; inside raw edges depend on the buyer's manual.
Example investigation#
A woven blouse shows raw edges at the curved side of the shirt-tail hem on about one in ten garments. The straight part of the hem is always fine. The operator uses a narrow hemming folder at speed around the curve. The hem allowance on the curve is also slightly narrower because the pattern was trued incorrectly. The pattern was corrected, and the operator was shown how to slow down and ease the curve into the folder.
Raw edge compared with open seam#
A raw edge and an open seam often start in the same way, with the fabric edge not fully inside the stitch or fold. The difference is what the customer sees: a raw edge shows unfinished, fraying fabric while the seam may still hold; an open seam is a gap where panels are not joined. Left untreated, a raw edge at a seam allowance often frays back until the seam opens.
Factory checklist#
- Folder or binder suited to fabric and hem width
- Hem and seam allowances correct on pattern and cut panels
- Binding width checked
- Overlock knife sharp and set
- Hems and curves included in inline checks
Related guides: open seam, uneven stitch.