Author
Salauddin Ahamed Sagar writes practical technical resources about textile engineering, garment manufacturing, quality, industrial engineering, production, testing and factory problem solving.
The notes on TextileNotes are written for people who work with fabric and garments every day: engineers, supervisors, quality staff, merchandisers, students and teachers. The aim is to explain how things work, show the calculation behind each number and give practical steps for finding and fixing problems on the factory floor.
The 4-point system scores fabric defects by length and converts them into points per 100 square yards. How to inspect rolls, assign points, calculate the score for a roll and a shipment, and what the result does and does not mean.
5 Why analysis asks 'why' repeatedly until it reaches a cause that can be fixed. How to use it well, where it goes wrong, and three worked examples from sewing, cutting and finishing.
5S is the workplace organisation method behind most lean programs. What each S means on a sewing floor, in cutting, stores and finishing, how to run a 5S audit, and how to stop it fading after the first month.
AQL sampling decides how many garments to inspect from a lot and how many defects are allowed. How the sampling tables work, inspection levels, code letters, accept and reject numbers, and what AQL does and does not guarantee.
A garment bill of materials lists every material needed to make a style, with specification, placement, consumption and supplier. How to structure a BOM, calculate quantities by color and size, and avoid the errors that cause shortages.
Bio-scouring uses pectinase enzymes instead of hot caustic soda to remove waxes and pectins from cotton before dyeing. How it works, typical process conditions, a step-by-step process, how to test absorbency, its benefits and limits, and how to switch from conventional scouring.
A bottleneck is the station that limits the output of the whole line. How to find it with WIP observation and capacity studies, the common reasons a station becomes a bottleneck, and practical ways to raise its output.
Bowing and skewing happen when weft yarns or knitted courses are not straight and square across the width. How to measure bow and skew, where they come from in finishing, and why they cause twisted garments and mismatched checks.
Bursting strength measures the pressure or force needed to burst a fabric stretched in all directions. Why it is used for knits instead of tensile tests, the hydraulic, pneumatic and ball burst methods, and what affects results.
Garment factories face social, environmental, security, quality and chemical audits from buyers and third parties. What each type looks at, common audit schemes, how to prepare, and how to handle findings with corrective action plans.
CAPA is the process for recording a problem, removing its cause and preventing it elsewhere. What corrective and preventive actions mean, the steps of a CAPA, a filled example, and how to keep CAPAs from becoming paperwork.
CM (cost of making) covers cutting, sewing and finishing. Learn how to build a cost per minute from factory costs, calculate CM from SMV and efficiency, and avoid the assumptions that make CM quotes lose money.