What is skewing?#
Skewing is a fabric distortion in which the weft yarns (or the courses in knitted fabric) are straight but not at right angles to the selvedge. One edge of the fabric is ahead of the other, so the weft runs diagonally across the width.
Skewed fabric is a common cause of garment twist: trouser legs that turn, side seams that swing to the front, and hems that are not level after washing. Some twill fabrics are deliberately skewed in finishing to counteract their natural twisting tendency; in that case, the agreed skew is part of the specification.
What it looks like#
- Weft yarns or stripes running at an angle across the fabric.
- Checks that look like parallelograms instead of squares.
- Garments that twist after the first wash.
- Stripes that slant across a garment body.
Where it occurs#
- Twill fabrics such as denim and chino.
- Woven stripes and checks.
- Knitted fabrics, where course skew is related to spirality.
- Fabrics finished on stenters with poor edge control.
Likely causes#
Skew comes from one side of the fabric travelling ahead of the other in processing, typically on the stenter, or from the fabric's own twisting tendency released in washing. Cutting panels aligned to the fabric edge instead of the grain then transfers the skew into the garment.
Machine-related causes#
- Stenter chains on the two sides running at different effective speeds.
- Straightener not detecting or correcting skew.
- Fabric entry not square to the machine.
Material-related causes#
- Twill fabrics tend to twist in the direction of the twill after washing.
- Knit fabric torque from lively yarns.
Operator and process-related causes#
- Crooked feeding into finishing machines.
- Settings changed mid-run without checks.
Method-related causes#
- No skew measurement in fabric inspection.
- Cutting to the edge of skewed fabric.
- No agreed skew specification for twill fabrics that need controlled skew.
How to confirm the cause#
- Measure skew on relaxed fabric at several points along the roll. See bowing and skewing.
- Wash a sample and measure again. If skew increases, the fabric's own twist is a factor.
- Check cut panels: does the weft run square to the grain line on the pattern?
- Review finishing records and straightener data.
- Compare garment twist with fabric skew to see how much comes from cutting.
Immediate containment#
- Stop cutting rolls with skew above the agreed limit.
- For rolls within limit but noticeable, align patterns to the weft or stripe, not the edge.
- Wash-test garments already cut from affected rolls.
- Separate and label affected rolls.
Corrective action#
| Cause | Corrective action |
|---|---|
| Stenter feeding | Refinish with straightener; align chains |
| Straightener fault | Repair and calibrate |
| Fabric torque | Controlled skewing in finishing for twills; yarn changes for knits |
| Cutting on edge | Align patterns to grain; update marker instructions |
Preventive action#
- Skew limits in the fabric specification, including washed skew where relevant.
- Skew measurement at incoming fabric inspection.
- Supplier control of stenter and straightener settings.
- Garment twist test on first bulk garments.
Inspection notes#
- Measure skew on flat fabric without tension.
- Check garments after washing for leg or side seam twist.
- Garment twist above the buyer's limit is usually a major defect.
Example investigation#
Chino trousers from one lot twist after washing, with the inseam moving towards the front of the leg. Fabric skew on the rolls is low as delivered, but a washed sample skews much more in the twill direction. The fabric was finished without the controlled pre-skew the supplier normally uses for that twill. Future lots were finished with the pre-skew setting and checked after washing before cutting.
Questions to ask the fabric supplier#
- Is this fabric finished with a deliberate pre-skew, and what value is targeted?
- How is skew measured at the mill, before or after washing?
- Were straightener settings changed for this lot?
- What washed skew does the mill expect for this construction?
- Can skew results be supplied per roll?
For twills, agreeing both the as-delivered skew and the washed skew avoids disputes later.
Factory checklist#
- Skew limit (and washed skew where needed) in the specification
- Skew measured at fabric inspection
- Patterns aligned to the weft on noticeable skew
- Wash test of first bulk garments for twist
- Supplier informed with measurements