A marker is the plan of how all the pattern pieces for one or more garments are laid on the fabric for cutting. Today most markers are made in CAD software and plotted at full scale on paper, or sent directly to an automatic cutter. The marker decides fabric consumption, so it has more influence on material cost than almost anything else the cutting room does.
Marker efficiency#
Use the marker efficiency calculator for your own markers.
What limits efficiency#
Grain lines#
Pattern pieces must follow their grain line (usually parallel to the selvedge), within a small tolerance. This stops pieces from rotating into gaps where they would fit better.
Fabric direction#
For directional fabrics (nap, pile, one-way prints, many knits), all pieces must point the same way. This removes the option of rotating pieces 180 degrees, which usually lowers efficiency.
Stripes and checks#
Matching stripes across seams, pockets and plackets forces pieces into specific positions on the pattern repeat. Efficiency on striped and checked fabrics is much lower than on plain fabrics.
Width#
A marker must fit inside the cuttable width: the full width minus selvedges and any faulty edges. If a supplier delivers fabric narrower than the width the marker was planned for, the marker no longer fits and a new one is needed.
Size mix#
Markers that combine several sizes (for example one S, two M, two L, one XL) nest pieces better than single-size markers. The size ratio in each marker comes from the cut plan.
Piece shapes#
Large, curved or irregular pieces nest poorly; many small pieces fill gaps well. Some design details cost more fabric than they appear to.
Cut planning#
A cut plan decides how an order (quantities by size and color) is split into markers and lays:
- How many sizes to put in each marker.
- How many plies each lay needs.
- The maximum lay length the table allows and the maximum lay height the cutting method allows.
A good cut plan balances marker efficiency (more sizes per marker) against lay practicality (length and height limits) and the number of markers the CAD team must make.
Marker types#
| Type | Description |
|---|---|
| Single-size | Pieces of one size; simple but usually less efficient |
| Multi-size | Pieces of several sizes nested together; usually more efficient |
| Closed (one garment) | All pieces of one garment kept together |
| Open | Pieces of several garments mixed freely |
Checks before cutting#
- Marker width equals the actual cuttable width of the fabric being cut
- All pieces present, with correct size labels
- Grain lines within tolerance
- Directional fabric: all pieces the same way
- Stripes and checks matched as specified
- Splice marks placed where no pieces cross
- Notches and drill marks shown
Improving marker efficiency safely#
- Measure fabric width by roll and group rolls by width, so markers can be made for the actual width.
- Use multi-size markers where the order allows.
- Allow grain tolerance only where the product and buyer accept it.
- Review small design details with product development: a slightly different pocket or facing shape can save fabric.
- Automatic nesting in CAD often finds better layouts than manual placement; try several runs.
Efficiency gains must never come from breaking grain, direction or matching rules. A garment that twists or shades costs more than the fabric saved.
From marker to consumption#
Consumption per garment comes directly from the marker:
See fabric consumption and the woven fabric consumption calculator. For ways to cut waste further, read reducing fabric waste in cutting.
Related guides#
- Fabric spreading: how the marker is used on the lay.
- Cutting room process: the full cutting room workflow around the marker.
- Different types of fabric for dresses and clothing: fabric widths and characters that change marker planning.
- Bill of materials: booking fabric from marker consumption.