Spreading is the process of laying fabric on the cutting table in plies of the length set by the marker, one on top of another, ready to be cut together. Good spreading is invisible. Bad spreading shows up later as panels of the wrong size, mismatched stripes, shaded garments and wasted fabric.
What spreading must achieve#
- Correct length for every ply, with the smallest practical end loss.
- Aligned edges, usually on one side, so every ply sits under the marker.
- No tension: fabric laid relaxed, not stretched, so panels do not shrink back after cutting.
- Correct face and direction for the fabric and the style.
- Flat plies with no ridges, folds or trapped air.
- Shade control, so panels in one garment come from the same roll or shade group.
- Defect control, so fabric faults are cut out or kept away from visible parts.
Spreading modes#
| Mode | How plies lie | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Face one way (F/O/W) | All plies face up, same direction | Directional fabrics: nap, pile, one-way prints, many knits |
| Face to face (F/F) | Plies alternate face up and face down, folded or cut at the ends | Symmetrical garments from non-directional fabrics; pairs of panels cut together |
| Face to face, one way | Alternating faces, but all in the same direction | Directional fabrics where mirror pairs are needed |
Directional fabrics include corduroy and velvet (pile), fabrics with a one-way print, and many knits where the loop direction shows in the shade. Spreading them in the wrong mode creates shading between panels.
Manual and automatic spreading#
Manual spreading uses two people walking the fabric along the table. It is flexible and needs little investment, but tension and alignment depend on the team.
Automatic spreaders carry the roll along the table, feed the fabric with controlled tension, align the edge with sensors and cut the ply end. They are faster and more consistent, especially for knits and long lays.
Controlling tension#
Knitted fabrics and stretch wovens are easily stretched while spreading. A panel cut from stretched fabric shrinks back after cutting, and the garment comes out short.
- Relax knit fabrics before spreading. Many factories unroll knits and leave them to relax for a set period, because fabric on the roll is under tension from finishing and rolling.
- Use positive feed on spreaders so the machine delivers fabric rather than pulling it.
- Check ply length after a short rest: if plies pull back from the ends, tension is too high.
End loss and splicing#
End loss is the fabric beyond the marker at each end of every ply, needed to make sure the full marker is covered. Keep it small but consistent; a few centimeters per end is typical in controlled rooms. Multiply by the number of plies to see its real cost.
When a roll ends in the middle of a ply, the next roll is spliced at a splice mark: a line across the marker where no pattern pieces cross, so the overlap does not leave a panel short. Splicing positions should be marked on the marker.
Shade and roll control#
Different rolls, even from the same dye lot, can differ slightly in shade. Mixing plies from different rolls inside one garment gives visible shade differences between panels.
- Keep a roll ticket on each ply or group of plies.
- Group rolls by shade before spreading, using the fabric inspection shade report.
- Number panels after cutting so garments are assembled from panels of the same ply.
See the shade variation defect guide.
Lay height#
The maximum lay height depends on the cutting method and fabric. Too high a lay moves during cutting, so top and bottom panels differ in size. Straight knife cutting of slippery fabrics needs lower lays than cutting of stable cottons. Automatic cutters have their own maximum compressed height.
Checks during spreading#
- Correct marker and marker width for the fabric's cuttable width
- Fabric face and direction correct for the style
- Knit fabric relaxed for the planned time
- Ply ends aligned, no tension, no pulling back
- Edge alignment on the reference side
- Splices only at marked positions
- Shade groups and roll tickets recorded
- Fabric defects marked and avoided or cut out
- Lay height within the limit for the cutting method
Common spreading faults#
| Fault | Result |
|---|---|
| Fabric under tension | Panels shrink after cutting; short garments |
| Misaligned plies | Some panels cut short or narrow at the edge |
| Wrong face or direction | Shading, wrong way nap, mirror panels missing |
| Mixed rolls in one garment | Shade variation between panels |
| Excess end loss | Higher fabric consumption |
| Ridges or folds | Distorted panels |
| Splice in the wrong place | Missing or short panels |
Related#
Related guides#
- Fabric shrinkage: why knits must be relaxed before spreading.
- 4-point fabric inspection: marking fabric defects at inspection so spreaders can cut around them.
- Reducing fabric waste in cutting: controlling end loss and splicing waste during spreading.
- Bowing and skewing in fabric: handling distorted rolls of stripes and checks.