Fabric often makes up more than half the cost of a garment, so a small percentage saved in cutting has a large effect on profit. It also reduces textile waste. Most fabric losses in cutting are measurable and can be reduced.
Where fabric is lost#
| Loss | Description |
|---|---|
| Marker waste | Fabric between pattern pieces inside the marker |
| End loss | Fabric at the start and end of each ply |
| Width loss | Difference between the fabric width and the marker width |
| Splicing loss | Overlap where plies are joined at splice marks or defects |
| Defect cut-outs | Fabric removed around fabric defects |
| Roll ends | Short pieces left at the end of rolls |
| Recuts | Panels cut again because of cutting or sewing damage |
Measuring fabric utilisation#
Track fabric used against the garments cut:
In practice, many factories compare actual consumption (fabric issued minus returned, per dozen cut) with the booked consumption. Track this by style and lay, and investigate large differences.
Practical ways to reduce waste#
1. Better markers#
- Use CAD nesting and try several size combinations. Mixing large and small sizes in one marker often improves efficiency.
- Make markers for the actual cuttable width of the fabric received, not the booked width.
- Check marker efficiency for every marker and compare with the target for similar styles.
See marker making.
2. Group rolls by width#
Rolls vary in width. Sorting rolls into width groups and using a marker for each group reduces width loss.
3. Control end loss#
- Keep end allowances to the minimum the fabric and spreading method need (for example, a couple of centimeters at each end for most fabrics).
- Train spreaders and check end loss in audits.
- Use spreading machines with accurate end catchers.
4. Plan rolls to the lay length#
Plan which rolls go into which lay so that roll ends are as short as possible. Use roll ends for shorter lays or small parts.
5. Splice correctly#
Splice marks on the marker show where plies can be joined with minimum overlap. Splicing at random points wastes fabric.
6. Handle defects smartly#
Mark defects at inspection. Where the marker allows, cut around defects or replace only the affected panels, instead of removing a full ply length.
7. Reduce recuts#
Recuts come from mis-cuts, damaged panels, shade mixing and sewing damage. Each recut uses extra fabric. Track recuts by cause.
8. Use end bits#
Small pieces can make pockets, facings, loops, labels, patches or samples. Store them by style and color.
A simple cutting room fabric report#
For each lay, record:
- Fabric issued (kg or m), rolls and widths
- Marker length, width and efficiency
- Number of plies and garments cut
- Fabric returned (roll ends, end bits)
- Actual consumption per dozen versus booked
A weekly review of these records shows which styles and lays lose the most fabric.
Common mistakes#
- Using markers made for a wider booked width on narrower fabric.
- Allowing long end allowances "to be safe".
- Not recording fabric returned, so waste is hidden.
- Mixing shade lots in lays and cutting extra to replace mismatched panels.
See fabric spreading and the cutting room process for the wider workflow.
Related guides#
- Fabric consumption: the booked consumption that waste reduction protects.
- 4-point fabric inspection: marking defects so they can be cut around.
- Garment costing: how fabric savings flow into the garment cost.