What is shade variation?#
Shade variation is a difference in color where there should be none. It can appear:
- Within a garment: front and back, or body and sleeves, in slightly different shades.
- Between garments: garments in the same color look different when displayed together.
- Within a roll: side to center to side, or beginning to end.
- Against the standard: bulk shade differs from the approved lab dip or sample.
Shade variation within a garment is usually a major defect. Variation between garments in the same carton or display is also commonly rejected.
What it looks like#
- Panels of one garment visibly different in color, especially under shop lighting.
- Garments in a carton that do not match when laid side by side.
- A gradual color change across the width or along the length of fabric.
- Bulk garments lighter, darker, redder or greener than the approved sample.
Where it occurs#
- Solid dyed knits and wovens, especially medium and dark shades.
- Garments assembled from several rolls, where panels are cut from different lays.
- Rib, collars and trims dyed separately from the body.
- Garment-dyed and washed products, where process variation shows.
Likely causes#
Shade variation starts in dyeing and finishing, but it becomes a garment defect when panels of different shades are combined. Good shade control has two parts: keep variation within the fabric small, and keep different shades apart through cutting, sewing and packing.
Machine-related causes#
- Dyeing machines with uneven liquor flow, temperature or pressure across the load.
- Finishing with uneven heat, which changes the shade of some dyes.
- Stenter drying differences between edges and center.
Material-related causes#
- Different dye lots: every lot can differ slightly from the next.
- Yarn or fiber differences that change dye uptake.
- Trims and rib dyed separately from the body fabric.
Operator and process-related causes#
- Mixing shade groups when spreading or bundling.
- Bundle mix-ups on the line, so parts from different bundles are joined.
- Replacement panels cut from a different roll.
Method-related causes#
- No shade grouping: rolls not assessed and grouped by shade before cutting.
- Lays combining shade groups without separation.
- Bundle tickets without shade or roll information.
How to confirm the cause#
- Compare panels of a defective garment in a light box under the buyer's light source.
- Trace bundle tickets back to the lay and rolls used.
- Check roll shade records and shade band assessment.
- Measure shade within rolls (side, center, side and beginning, end) to find dyeing variation.
- Compare bulk with the approved standard to find lot-to-standard differences.
Immediate containment#
- Stop the affected lays and bundles.
- Check garments from the same lays for panel mismatch.
- Separate mismatched garments; replace panels from the same shade group where possible.
- Recheck packed cartons for garment-to-garment variation if needed.
Corrective action#
| Cause | Corrective action |
|---|---|
| Within-roll variation | Return or reprocess rolls; review dyeing control with the mill |
| Dye lot differences | Shade group rolls; cut each group separately |
| Mixed shades in lays | Separate lays by shade group |
| Bundle mix-ups | Ticketing with shade group; one bundle per operator at a time |
| Trims not matching | Shade approve rib and trims against body shade |
Preventive action#
- Shade band or roll shade assessment at fabric inspection.
- Shade grouping recorded on roll labels and lay plans.
- Bundle tickets with lot and shade group.
- Shade continuity cards for repeat orders.
- Trim and rib approval against body fabric of the same lot.
Inspection notes#
- Compare panels and garments under the buyer's specified light source in a light box.
- Check garments across cartons, not just within one garment.
- Shade differences within a garment are usually major defects; follow the buyer's manual.
Example investigation#
A final inspection fails with 7 garments showing sleeves lighter than the body. Bundle tickets show all 7 came from one lay where rolls from two shade groups were spread together because a roll ran short. The lay plan did not show shade groups. The spreading procedure was changed to record shade group on each ply section and to never mix groups within a lay.
Factory checklist#
- Rolls shade assessed and grouped before cutting
- Shade group on roll labels, lay plans and bundle tickets
- Lays never mix shade groups
- Rib and trims shade approved against body fabric
- Light box with buyer's light source available at inspection
- Carton-level shade check before final inspection
Related guides: barre, fabric spreading.