What is poor rubbing fastness?#
Rubbing fastness (also called crocking fastness) is the resistance of a fabric's color to transfer when it is rubbed against another surface. Poor rubbing fastness means color comes off onto skin, other garments, car seats, bags or furniture. It is tested dry and wet; wet rubbing is usually the harder test.
See color fastness to rubbing for the test methods.
What it looks like#
- Color on white rubbing cloths in the test, graded with the grey scale for staining.
- Dark marks on skin, underwear or light-colored bags after wearing.
- Stronger staining in wet rubbing than dry.
- Uneven transfer where the fabric surface is brushed or printed.
Where it occurs#
- Deep shades: black, navy, dark red, especially on cotton.
- Indigo denim, where the dye sits in the outer layers of the yarn.
- Pigment prints and pigment-dyed fabrics.
- Brushed, peached or sueded fabrics.
Likely causes#
Color transfers when dye or pigment sits on the fiber surface and is not fixed firmly. This happens with deep shades (more surface dye), with dyes that are not fully fixed or washed off, and with pigments held by a binder that does not bond well. Surface finishing can raise fibers and loosen surface color.
Machine-related causes#
- Insufficient washing-off after reactive dyeing.
- Incomplete curing of pigment prints and pigment dyeing.
- Uneven finishing that leaves surface residues.
Material-related causes#
- Deep shades with high dye loads.
- Dye type: indigo and sulphur dyes on denim have typical rubbing limits.
- Binder and pigment system in prints.
Operator and process-related causes#
- Finishing shortcuts, such as skipping a wash or reducing curing time.
- Wrong chemical dosing of fixing agents or binders.
Method-related causes#
- Surface finishes (brushing, peaching) done after dyeing without checking rubbing.
- Softeners that affect rubbing results.
- Wet rubbing not tested at approval.
How to confirm the cause#
- Test dry and wet rubbing to the buyer's method on bulk fabric.
- Compare with the approved fabric and with other lots.
- Test before and after finishing steps to see which step changes the result.
- Check print curing with the print supplier's recommended test.
- Review dyeing and washing-off records.
Immediate containment#
- Hold the fabric lot and any garments already made.
- Test garments from bulk.
- Inform the buyer if the product is close to shipment and results are borderline.
Corrective action#
| Cause | Corrective action |
|---|---|
| Unfixed surface dye | Rewash and soap; retest |
| Incomplete curing | Re-cure pigment prints or dyeing where possible |
| Deep shade limits | Review dye selection; consider suitable fixing or finishing agents |
| Surface finish | Adjust brushing or peaching; test after finishing |
| Denim indigo | Agree realistic limits; controlled washing to remove loose indigo |
Preventive action#
- Dry and wet rubbing tests at lab dip, strike-off and bulk stages.
- Deep shade recipes designed for rubbing performance.
- Print curing checks with each production batch.
- Finishing route fixed and recorded for approved lots.
- Consumer care labels that warn where appropriate for dark denim, following the buyer's policy.
Inspection notes#
- Rubbing fastness is a test result; visual inspection of new garments does not find it.
- Keep test reports linked to lots and styles.
- A failed wet or dry rubbing grade is normally a reason to hold the lot.
Example investigation#
A black cotton jersey passes dry rubbing but fails wet rubbing. The same recipe passed on the previous lot. Records show the dyehouse reduced the number of hot rinses after soaping to increase throughput. After an additional hot wash and soaping, wet rubbing improves to the required grade. The dyehouse restored the original washing-off sequence.
Dry and wet rubbing compared#
| Dry rubbing | Wet rubbing | |
|---|---|---|
| Rubbing cloth | Dry | Wetted to a set pick-up |
| Usual result | Better grade | Lower grade, often by half to one grade or more |
| Main cause of failure | Loose surface dye or pigment | Water-soluble unfixed dye and surface dye |
Dark shades that pass dry rubbing often fail wet rubbing. Always check both where the buyer requires it, and look at the wet result first when a dark shade is borderline.
Factory checklist#
- Dry and wet rubbing tested on bulk
- Washing-off sequence followed for deep shades
- Print curing verified
- Surface finishing tested for its effect on rubbing
- Test reports linked to fabric lots
Related guides: color bleeding, color fastness to rubbing.