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ISO, ASTM and AATCC Test Methods: A Practical Map for Garments

A reference map of the test methods most often named in garment and fabric test programs: what each family covers, how ISO and AATCC or ASTM methods relate, and why results from different methods cannot be compared directly.

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Garment test programs name test methods by number: ISO 105-C06, AATCC 61, ASTM D5034 and so on. This page maps the methods you will meet most often. It lists what each method is for; it does not reproduce the methods. For the procedure, use the current official edition of each standard.

The organisations#

Organisation Scope
ISO (International Organization for Standardization) International standards, often adopted as EN, BS EN and national standards
AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) Test methods mainly for color fastness, wet processing and chemical properties
ASTM International Standards mainly for physical properties and specifications

Buyers based in different markets often favour one family. Many international buyers specify ISO methods; many North American buyers specify AATCC and ASTM methods.

Color fastness#

Property ISO AATCC
Washing ISO 105-C06 AATCC 61
Rubbing (crocking) ISO 105-X12 AATCC 8
Perspiration ISO 105-E04 AATCC 15
Light ISO 105-B02 AATCC 16.3
Water ISO 105-E01 AATCC 107
Chlorinated water (pool) ISO 105-E03 AATCC 162
Grey scale for color change ISO 105-A02 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1
Grey scale for staining ISO 105-A03 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2

Dimensional change#

Purpose ISO AATCC
Washing and drying procedures ISO 6330 AATCC LP1 (home laundering procedure)
Marking and measuring ISO 3759 Included in AATCC 135 and 150
Dimensional change after washing ISO 5077 AATCC 135 (fabrics), AATCC 150 (garments)
Skewness and garment twist ISO 16322 series AATCC 179

See dimensional stability testing.

Strength#

Property ISO ASTM
Tensile, strip ISO 13934-1 ASTM D5035
Tensile, grab ISO 13934-2 ASTM D5034
Tear ISO 13937 series ASTM D1424 (Elmendorf), D2261 (tongue)
Bursting ISO 13938-1, -2 ASTM D3786, D6797
Seam strength ISO 13935-1, -2 ASTM D1683
Seam slippage ISO 13936-1, -2 Buyer-specified method (check the manual)

Surface and appearance#

Property ISO ASTM
Pilling (pilling box) ISO 12945-1
Pilling (Martindale) ISO 12945-2 ASTM D4970
Pilling (random tumble) ISO 12945-3 ASTM D3512
Abrasion (Martindale) ISO 12947 series ASTM D4966

Construction and mass#

Property ISO ASTM
Threads per unit length ISO 7211-2 ASTM D3775
Mass per unit area ISO 3801 ASTM D3776
Yarn crimp ISO 7211-3 ASTM D3883

Rules for using test methods#

  1. Use the exact method and condition the buyer specifies. ISO 105-C06 alone has many test conditions.
  2. Do not compare results across methods. A grade under AATCC 61 is not the same as a grade under ISO 105-C06.
  3. Use the current edition unless the buyer names an edition. Methods are revised.
  4. Check sampling and specimen requirements, such as number of specimens and directions.
  5. Use accredited laboratories for official test reports when the buyer requires it.

About this page#

Method numbers are listed for identification. Requirements (grades, limits) come from buyers' manuals and product specifications, not from the test methods themselves.

Related: color fastness overview, pilling test, tensile strength, bursting strength.

Frequently asked questions#

Where do I get the full methods? Buy them from the publishing organisations or authorised resellers. Accredited laboratories hold current editions.

References and further reading

  1. ISO 105 series: Textiles. Tests for colour fastness (parts A02, A03, B02, C06, E01, E03, E04 and X12), International Organization for Standardization
  2. AATCC TM8: Colorfastness to Crocking, Crockmeter Method, AATCC
  3. AATCC TM15: Colorfastness to Perspiration, AATCC
  4. AATCC TM16.3: Colorfastness to Light, Xenon-Arc, AATCC
  5. AATCC TM61: Colorfastness to Laundering, Accelerated, AATCC
  6. AATCC TM107: Colorfastness to Water, AATCC
  7. AATCC TM135: Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering, AATCC
  8. AATCC TM150: Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering, AATCC
  9. AATCC TM162: Colorfastness to Water, Chlorinated Pool, AATCC
  10. AATCC TM179: Skewness Change in Fabric and Garment Twist Resulting from Automatic Home Laundering, AATCC
  11. AATCC Evaluation Procedures EP1 and EP2 (gray scales) and Laboratory Procedure LP1 (home laundering), AATCC
  12. ISO 6330: Textiles. Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing, International Organization for Standardization
  13. ISO 3759: Textiles. Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments in tests for determination of dimensional change, International Organization for Standardization
  14. ISO 5077: Textiles. Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying, International Organization for Standardization
  15. ISO 16322 series: Textiles. Determination of spirality after laundering, International Organization for Standardization
  16. ISO 13934-1 and ISO 13934-2: Textiles. Tensile properties of fabrics (strip method and grab method), International Organization for Standardization
  17. ISO 13935-1 and ISO 13935-2: Textiles. Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made-up textile articles (strip method and grab method), International Organization for Standardization
  18. ISO 13936-1 and ISO 13936-2: Textiles. Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics, International Organization for Standardization
  19. ISO 13937 series: Textiles. Tear properties of fabrics, International Organization for Standardization
  20. ISO 13938-1 and ISO 13938-2: Textiles. Bursting properties of fabrics (hydraulic and pneumatic methods), International Organization for Standardization
  21. ISO 12945-1, ISO 12945-2 and ISO 12945-3: Textiles. Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling, International Organization for Standardization
  22. ISO 12947 series: Textiles. Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale method, International Organization for Standardization
  23. ISO 7211-2 and ISO 7211-3: Textiles. Woven fabrics. Construction. Methods of analysis (threads per unit length; crimp of yarn in fabric), International Organization for Standardization
  24. ISO 3801: Textiles. Woven fabrics. Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area, International Organization for Standardization
  25. ASTM D5034: Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test), ASTM International
  26. ASTM D5035: Standard Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Strip Method), ASTM International
  27. ASTM D1424: Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus, ASTM International
  28. ASTM D2261: Tearing strength of fabrics by the tongue (single rip) procedure, ASTM International
  29. ASTM D3786: Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile Fabrics, Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method, ASTM International
  30. ASTM D6797: Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Fabrics, Constant-Rate-of-Extension (CRE) Ball Burst Test, ASTM International
  31. ASTM D1683: Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics, ASTM International
  32. ASTM D3512: Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics, Random Tumble Pilling Tester Method, ASTM International
  33. ASTM D4970: Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics, Martindale Tester, ASTM International
  34. ASTM D4966: Abrasion resistance of textile fabrics (Martindale abrasion tester method), ASTM International
  35. ASTM D3775: Warp (end) and filling (pick) count of woven fabrics, ASTM International
  36. ASTM D3776: Standard Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric, ASTM International
  37. ASTM D3883: Yarn crimp and yarn take-up in woven fabrics, ASTM International

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