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ISO, ASTM and AATCC Test Methods: A Practical Map for Garments

A reference map of the test methods most often named in garment and fabric test programs: what each family covers, how ISO and AATCC or ASTM methods relate, and why results from different methods cannot be compared directly.

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Garment test programs name test methods by number: ISO 105-C06, AATCC 61, ASTM D5034 and so on. This page maps the methods you will meet most often. It lists what each method is for; it does not reproduce the methods. For the procedure, use the current official edition of each standard.

The organisations#

Organisation Scope
ISO (International Organization for Standardization) International standards, often adopted as EN, BS EN and national standards
AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) Test methods mainly for color fastness, wet processing and chemical properties
ASTM International Standards mainly for physical properties and specifications

Buyers based in different markets often favour one family. Many international buyers specify ISO methods; many North American buyers specify AATCC and ASTM methods.

Color fastness#

Property ISO AATCC
Washing ISO 105-C06 AATCC 61
Rubbing (crocking) ISO 105-X12 AATCC 8
Perspiration ISO 105-E04 AATCC 15
Light ISO 105-B02 AATCC 16.3
Water ISO 105-E01 AATCC 107
Chlorinated water (pool) ISO 105-E03 AATCC 162
Grey scale for color change ISO 105-A02 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1
Grey scale for staining ISO 105-A03 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2

Dimensional change#

Purpose ISO AATCC
Washing and drying procedures ISO 6330 AATCC LP1 (home laundering procedure)
Marking and measuring ISO 3759 Included in AATCC 135 and 150
Dimensional change after washing ISO 5077 AATCC 135 (fabrics), AATCC 150 (garments)
Skewness and garment twist ISO 16322 series AATCC 179

See dimensional stability testing.

Strength#

Property ISO ASTM
Tensile, strip ISO 13934-1 ASTM D5035
Tensile, grab ISO 13934-2 ASTM D5034
Tear ISO 13937 series ASTM D1424 (Elmendorf), D2261 (tongue)
Bursting ISO 13938-1, -2 ASTM D3786, D6797
Seam strength ISO 13935-1, -2 ASTM D1683
Seam slippage ISO 13936-1, -2 Buyer-specified method (check the manual)

Surface and appearance#

Property ISO ASTM
Pilling (pilling box) ISO 12945-1
Pilling (Martindale) ISO 12945-2 ASTM D4970
Pilling (random tumble) ISO 12945-3 ASTM D3512
Abrasion (Martindale) ISO 12947 series ASTM D4966

Construction and mass#

Property ISO ASTM
Threads per unit length ISO 7211-2 ASTM D3775
Mass per unit area ISO 3801 ASTM D3776
Yarn crimp ISO 7211-3 ASTM D3883

Rules for using test methods#

  1. Use the exact method and condition the buyer specifies. ISO 105-C06 alone has many test conditions.
  2. Do not compare results across methods. A grade under AATCC 61 is not the same as a grade under ISO 105-C06.
  3. Use the current edition unless the buyer names an edition. Methods are revised.
  4. Check sampling and specimen requirements, such as number of specimens and directions.
  5. Use accredited laboratories for official test reports when the buyer requires it.

About this page#

Method numbers are listed for identification. Requirements (grades, limits) come from buyers' manuals and product specifications, not from the test methods themselves.

Related: color fastness overview, pilling test, tensile strength, bursting strength.

Frequently asked questions#

Where do I get the full methods? Buy them from the publishing organisations or authorised resellers. Accredited laboratories hold current editions.

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