What is barre?#
Barre (from the French barré, meaning barred) is a fault in knitted fabric that shows as horizontal bands running across the width. The bands differ slightly in shade, luster or texture, and they usually repeat at regular intervals. Barre is most visible after dyeing, especially in solid, medium to dark shades.
Because each feeder on a circular knitting machine knits its own course, a yarn or feeder that differs from the others creates a band that repeats every revolution.
What it looks like#
- Horizontal stripes across plain dyed knit fabric.
- Bands that repeat at a regular spacing.
- Bands that look stronger at some viewing angles or under certain light.
- In garments, stripes visible across the body.
Where it occurs#
- Single jersey, the most common case.
- Rib, interlock and fleece also show barre.
- Dark and medium solid shades, which show differences most.
Likely causes#
Barre comes from differences between the yarns or between the feeders. Yarn differences (lot, count, twist, fiber) change how the yarn looks and how it takes dye. Feeder differences (tension, stitch length) change the loop size and so the density of each course.
Machine-related causes#
- Stitch length differences between feeders because of tension or positive feed settings.
- Worn or damaged feeders, guides or belts.
- Cam settings not uniform around the machine.
Material-related causes#
- Mixed yarn lots or yarn from different spinners.
- Count variation between cones.
- Twist variation, which changes luster and dye uptake.
- Fiber mix differences, such as cotton from different sources with different maturity, which dye differently.
Operator and process-related causes#
- Creeling errors: putting cones from different lots on the same machine.
- Running out of a lot and continuing with a new lot without separating rolls.
Method-related causes#
- Lack of yarn lot control in knitting.
- Dye class and process that exaggerate small yarn differences.
How to confirm the cause#
- Measure the repeat: count the courses between bands. If the repeat matches the number of feeders, one feeder or its yarn is different.
- Unravel the fabric and identify the course that looks different; trace it to the feeder.
- Check yarn lot records for the roll.
- Test the yarn from that feeder for count and twist.
- Measure stitch length at each feeder.
- Compare greige and dyed fabric: yarn-related barre often shows only after dyeing.
Immediate containment#
- Stop the machine and identify the feeder.
- Separate rolls knitted since the problem started.
- Inspect dyed rolls from the same machine and lot.
- Do not cut rolls with visible barre for solid-color garments; discuss with the buyer or use for other purposes.
Corrective action#
| Cause | Corrective action |
|---|---|
| Mixed yarn lots | Recreel with a single lot; segregate rolls |
| Count or twist variation | Remove faulty cones; raise with the spinner |
| Stitch length difference | Reset feeder tension and stitch length |
| Worn parts | Replace feeders, guides or belts |
| Dye exaggeration | Review dye selection and process |
Preventive action#
- Yarn lot control: one lot per machine, clear labelling, lot changes recorded.
- Incoming yarn testing for count and twist.
- Regular stitch length checks on all feeders.
- Knitting a test piece and dyeing it when changing yarn lots.
Inspection notes#
- Inspect dyed fabric under the buyer's light source and at a low angle.
- Barre is often recorded as a continuous defect in the 4-point system. See 4-point inspection.
- Visible barre on a solid-color garment front is usually a major defect.
Example investigation#
A navy single jersey order shows faint horizontal bands after dyeing. The bands repeat every 96 courses. The knitting machine has 96 feeders, so one feeder is suspected. Unravelling a sample shows one course per repeat that is slightly brighter. The yarn on that feeder comes from a cone with a different lot number: it was added from a nearby machine when the original cone ran out. Count testing shows it is within tolerance, but its twist is higher, which gives more luster after dyeing.
Actions: the cone was removed, the creel was checked against the lot record, rolls knitted during the period were separated, and a rule was added that replacement cones must come from the same lot store.
Factory checklist#
- One yarn lot per machine and per order
- Yarn count and twist tested on receipt
- Stitch length measured on each feeder
- Creeling audited against lot records
- Test piece dyed on lot changes
- Dyed rolls inspected under the buyer's light
Related guides: shade variation, slub.