GOTS Explained: Global Organic Textile Standard in Practice

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a certification standard for textiles made from organic fibers. Unlike a simple content claim, GOTS covers the whole processing chain: from the first processing of organic fiber through spinning, knitting or weaving, dyeing, finishing and garment making to labelling and trading. It includes environmental criteria for processing and social criteria for workers.

This article describes how GOTS works in practice. The standard itself is published by Global Standard gGmbH and revised periodically; always work from the current official version.

Label grades#

GOTS has two label grades based on the share of certified organic fiber in the product:

The remaining fibers, accessories and chemical inputs must also meet GOTS rules. Some fibers and materials are restricted or not allowed.

What GOTS covers#

Fiber#

The organic status of the fiber must be certified according to recognised organic farming standards. GOTS then tracks the fiber through processing.

Processing and chemicals#

Chemical inputs (dyes, auxiliaries, finishes) must meet GOTS requirements: certain substances are banned and others restricted. Wet processing units must meet environmental requirements such as wastewater treatment.

Social criteria#

Certified operations must meet social criteria based on international labour norms, covering areas such as freely chosen employment, freedom of association, safe and hygienic working conditions, no child labour, fair wages and working hours, and non-discrimination.

Separation and traceability#

Organic materials must be kept separate from conventional ones and identified at every stage, so that contamination and mixing are prevented.

Scope and transaction certificates#

Two documents appear constantly in GOTS supply chains:

• Scope certificate (SC): issued to a company by an approved certification body. It lists the processes and product categories the company is certified for.
• Transaction certificate (TC): issued for a specific shipment of certified goods from one certified company to the next. It proves that the goods in that shipment are GOTS goods.

A garment factory needs a valid scope certificate that covers its processes, and it needs transaction certificates from its fabric suppliers for the fabric it uses. It then applies for TCs for its own shipments to buyers.

What a garment factory must do#

• Hold a valid scope certificate that covers cutting, sewing, finishing, printing or whatever processes the factory performs.
• Receive TCs for every lot of GOTS fabric and keep them with the delivery documents.
• Separate and identify GOTS materials in the warehouse, cutting room and production.
• Use only approved inputs: check that printing inks, washing chemicals and accessories meet GOTS rules.
• Keep records that link input quantities to output quantities (mass balance).
• Apply for TCs for outgoing shipments through the certification body.
• Use the label correctly: correct grade, license number and certification body reference, as the labelling guide requires.

Common problems in audits#

• Missing or mismatched TCs for fabric lots.
• GOTS fabric stored or cut together with conventional fabric without identification.
• Printing inks or chemicals used without evidence of approval.
• Output quantities larger than certified input allows.
• Labels printed before the products were certified.

GOTS and other standards#

• OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 tests articles for harmful substances; it does not certify organic content. See OEKO-TEX.
• GRS and RCS cover recycled content, not organic. See GRS and RCS.
• ZDHC focuses on chemical management in manufacturing. See ZDHC.

Buyers may require more than one scheme. Map which certificate covers which claim before production starts.

Related guides#

• Buyer compliance audits: how certification audits fit with other buyer audits.
• Sustainable bio-scouring process: wet processing with fewer harsh chemicals.
• Restricted substances lists: the product chemical rules that also apply.