OEKO-TEX Explained: STANDARD 100 and the Other Labels

What OEKO-TEX certification means in practice: what STANDARD 100 tests for, how product classes work, how the other OEKO-TEX labels differ, and what a factory or brand needs to do to use them correctly.

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OEKO-TEX is an association of independent textile testing and research institutes that runs a family of certifications and labels for textiles and leather. The best known is OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, a label for textile articles that have been tested for harmful substances.

This article explains the practical meaning of the main labels. The official criteria, limit values and procedures are published and updated by OEKO-TEX; always use the current official documents for decisions.

STANDARD 100 in plain terms#

STANDARD 100 certifies that a textile article, at a given stage of processing, has been tested for a defined list of harmful substances and meets the limit values for its product class. The list includes substances that are regulated by law in various countries and others that are restricted as a precaution. OEKO-TEX reviews the criteria regularly.

Certification can cover every stage of the supply chain: fibers, yarns, fabrics, trims and finished products. A garment maker can use certified components, which simplifies the testing needed for the finished article.

What it is and is not#

STANDARD 100 is STANDARD 100 is not
A test-based label for harmful substances in the article An organic or recycled content claim
Specific to the certified articles and their product class A certification of a whole factory's environmental or social performance
Verifiable through the certificate number on the label Valid for articles not covered by the certificate

Product classes#

Limit values depend on how the article is used. STANDARD 100 has four product classes:

Class Articles
I Articles for babies and toddlers up to 3 years
II Articles with direct skin contact
III Articles without or with little skin contact
IV Decoration and furnishing materials

Class I has the strictest requirements. A certificate for class II does not cover the same material used in baby wear.

Other OEKO-TEX certifications#

Name What it covers
MADE IN GREEN A traceable product label for articles tested for harmful substances and made in facilities certified for environmentally friendly and socially responsible production
STeP Certification of production facilities for sustainable textile and leather production
ECO PASSPORT Certification of chemicals, colourants and auxiliaries used in textile and leather production
LEATHER STANDARD Harmful substance testing for leather articles

Check the OEKO-TEX website for the current list and scope of each certification.

How certification works in practice#

  1. The company applies to an OEKO-TEX institute and describes the articles and their components.
  2. The institute reviews the materials, takes samples and tests them against the criteria for the requested product class.
  3. If the articles pass, a certificate is issued for the defined articles. The institute also carries out checks during the validity of the certificate.
  4. Certificates have a limited validity and must be renewed. Check the current rules on the official website.
  5. Labels carry the certificate number and the institute, so buyers and consumers can verify them using the label check on the OEKO-TEX website.

What garment factories should do#

  • Keep certificates for every certified component (fabric, thread, labels, buttons, zippers) and check that each covers the product class of the garment.
  • Check validity dates before each order and before using a label.
  • Only use the label on certified articles, with the correct certificate number and wording.
  • Keep traceability from the certificate to the delivery: supplier invoices and delivery notes that link the certified material to your production.
  • Do not add uncertified components to a certified article without checking the certification rules.

Common misunderstandings#

  • "Our factory is OEKO-TEX certified." STANDARD 100 certifies articles, not factories. Facility certification is a different scheme (STeP).
  • "The fabric is certified, so the garment is." The garment needs its own certificate if it is to carry the label, although certified components make it easier.
  • "Certified means organic." STANDARD 100 says nothing about organic content. For organic claims see GOTS.
  • "Class II is enough for baby wear." Baby articles need class I.

References and further reading

  1. OEKO-TEX official website: standards, label check and current requirements, OEKO-TEX Service GmbH

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