Almost all apparel fabric is either knitted or woven. The difference in how the yarns are held together changes nearly everything that follows: how the fabric behaves, how it is bought, how it is cut and sewn, and how it is tested.
Structure#
- Woven fabric: two sets of yarns cross at right angles. Warp yarns run along the length; weft (filling) yarns run across the width. They interlace above and below each other.
- Knitted fabric: yarns form loops that pull through each other. In weft knits (jersey, rib, interlock, fleece), loops run across the width. Warp knits (tricot, raschel) have loops formed along the length from many yarns.
Side-by-side comparison#
| Knit | Woven | |
|---|---|---|
| Stretch | Stretches without elastane, especially in width | Little stretch without elastane or bias cutting |
| Recovery | Good in rib and elastane knits | Stable; little movement |
| Shrinkage | Often higher, especially in length | Often lower after sanforising or finishing |
| Edge behaviour | Single jersey curls; runs possible | Frays at cut edges |
| Wrinkling | Resists wrinkles | Wrinkles more (depends on fiber and finish) |
| Weight measure | GSM is standard | GSM or oz/yd², plus construction (EPI x PPI, counts) |
| Buying unit | Usually kilograms | Usually meters or yards |
| Consumption | Calculated by weight (kg per dozen) | Calculated by length from the marker |
| Typical garments | T-shirts, polos, sweatshirts, underwear, sportswear | Shirts, trousers, jeans, jackets, dresses |
How to tell them apart#
- Look at the surface with a magnifier: loops (V-shapes in jersey) mean knit; a crossing grid means woven.
- Stretch it: knits stretch readily in width; wovens without elastane hardly move except on the bias.
- Pull a yarn from a cut edge: a woven yarn comes out straight across; a knit yarn unravels loop by loop from the end knitted last.
Differences in production#
Costing and consumption#
Knit fabric is bought by weight, so consumption is calculated from panel areas and GSM. Woven fabric is bought by length, so consumption comes from the marker length and fabric width. See fabric consumption.
Cutting#
- Knits must be relaxed before spreading, especially tubular fabrics, and spread without tension.
- Wovens need attention to grain line and pattern matching for checks and stripes.
Sewing#
| Knit | Woven | |
|---|---|---|
| Main stitches | Overlock, coverstitch, flatlock | Lockstitch, chainstitch, overlock for neatening |
| Needle point | Ball point | Set point (regular) |
| Key risk | Stretching, needle damage, skipped stitches | Puckering, seam slippage, fraying |
Testing#
Both are tested for shrinkage, color fastness and strength, but the strength tests differ: knits use bursting strength; wovens use tensile and tear strength and seam slippage. See bursting strength and tensile strength.
Which to choose#
Knits suit comfort, stretch and casual or active products. Wovens suit structured shapes, crisp appearance and durability. Many products combine both, such as a woven jacket with rib-knit cuffs.
Start with single jersey for knits and fabric GSM for weight.
Frequently asked questions#
Is denim knit or woven? Denim is a woven twill fabric, usually with dyed warp and undyed weft. Knitted fabrics that look like denim exist and are sold as "knit denim".
Can knit fabric be bought by the meter? Some suppliers sell knits by length, especially stretch knits for fashion. Convert to weight with GSM and width before comparing prices.
Why do knit garments need different needles? A sharp needle can cut the yarn of a knit loop, which starts a hole. Ball point needles push yarns aside instead.