Topic
Plain, twill and satin weaves and their uses.
10 notes
Bowing and skewing happen when weft yarns or knitted courses are not straight and square across the width. How to measure bow and skew, where they come from in finishing, and why they cause twisted garments and mismatched checks.
The main types of fabric used for dresses and everyday clothing: cotton, linen, silk, wool, viscose, polyester and blends, and the constructions made from them such as poplin, denim, satin, chiffon, crepe, jersey and velvet. Properties, typical weights, care and which garments each suits.
How to analyse a woven fabric sample: count ends and picks per inch, identify the weave, find warp and weft counts from yarn removed from the fabric, measure crimp and GSM, and write the construction in standard form.
A practical reference of typical GSM ranges for knitted and woven apparel fabrics, what moves a fabric up or down the range, and how to use the chart when reviewing a specification.
Why woven and knitted fabrics shrink, how shrinkage is measured and calculated, typical causes in knitting, weaving and finishing, and how factories control shrinkage through relaxation, compaction and pattern allowance.
How to convert fabric weight between grams per square meter and ounces per square yard, where the 33.906 factor comes from, and why linear weight is a different number.
Knitted fabrics are made of interlooped yarns; woven fabrics of interlaced warp and weft. How that difference affects stretch, shrinkage, costing, cutting, sewing and testing, with a side-by-side comparison.
A reference list of 100 denim jeans brands from the USA, Europe, Japan, India, Canada and Australia, grouped by region with segment and what each is known for, plus a guide to denim segments, the fabric behind jeans and what denim brands expect from manufacturers.
Stretch is how far a fabric extends under load; recovery is how well it returns. What drives stretch and recovery in knits and wovens, elastane content, how the properties are tested, and what goes wrong in garments.
Tensile tests pull woven fabric until it breaks to measure maximum force and elongation. The difference between strip and grab methods, the main ISO and ASTM standards, how to read a result, and what lowers fabric strength.