A GSM chart answers a simple question: is this fabric weight normal for this kind of garment? When a tech pack asks for a 260 GSM single jersey T-shirt, or a supplier offers a 95 GSM poplin for a work shirt, the chart tells you something needs a second look.
The ranges below are broad and practical. They describe what is commonly made and sold, not limits. Every buyer program sets its own target and tolerance, and those always win.
Knitted fabrics#
| Fabric | Typical GSM | Common uses | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single jersey, light | 110 to 150 | Summer tees, layering tops, lining | Often 34s to 40s Ne yarn |
| Single jersey, regular | 150 to 200 | Basic and promotional T-shirts | 160 to 180 is the most common band |
| Single jersey, heavy | 200 to 260 | Heavyweight and streetwear tees | Heavier yarn or tighter stitch |
| Lycra single jersey | 180 to 240 | Fitted tops, dresses | Elastane pulls the fabric in and adds weight |
| Pique | 180 to 240 | Polo shirts | Tuck structure adds bulk |
| 1x1 rib | 180 to 260 | Tank tops, collars, cuffs | Measured relaxed; stretches easily |
| 2x2 rib | 220 to 320 | Cuffs, waistbands, fitted knitwear | |
| Interlock | 200 to 280 | Baby wear, polo shirts, sportswear | Stable, same on both sides |
| French terry | 240 to 330 | Sweatshirts, joggers, spring hoodies | Loops unbrushed on the back |
| Fleece | 260 to 400 | Hoodies, sweatshirts, joggers | Brushed back; weight changes with brushing |
Woven fabrics#
| Fabric | Typical GSM | Common uses |
|---|---|---|
| Voile, lawn | 60 to 100 | Blouses, lightweight shirts |
| Poplin | 100 to 140 | Shirts, dresses |
| Oxford | 120 to 160 | Casual shirts |
| Twill, shirting | 130 to 180 | Shirts, light chinos |
| Twill, bottoms | 220 to 300 | Chinos, workwear trousers |
| Canvas and drill | 250 to 400 | Workwear, bags, jackets |
| Denim | 270 to 470 | Jeans, jackets (about 8 to 14 oz/yd²) |
Denim is usually specified in ounces per square yard. A 12 oz denim is about 407 GSM. The GSM to oz/yd² conversion explains the factor.
What moves a fabric up or down the range#
Two fabrics with the same name can differ by 50 GSM or more. The main reasons:
- Yarn count. A coarser yarn (lower Ne, higher tex) makes a heavier fabric at the same structure. See yarn count explained.
- Stitch length or picks. In knitting, a shorter loop packs more loops into each square meter after relaxation. In weaving, more picks per inch add weft weight.
- Elastane. Lycra fabrics are knitted open and then contract strongly, so they finish heavier than the same structure without elastane.
- Finishing. Compaction increases GSM; stretching on the stenter reduces it. Brushing fleece removes some weight and changes thickness. Resin and softener add a little.
- Garment washing. Enzyme and stone washes remove fibre. Pigment and some softeners add weight. Always state whether GSM is before or after wash.
- Moisture. Cotton and viscose pick up water from the air. That is why GSM is measured on conditioned samples.
How to use the chart#
- Check the specification makes sense. A requested weight far outside the typical range is not wrong, but ask why. It may be a special fabric, a typing error, or a weight quoted in a different fabric state.
- Compare the weight with the yarn and structure. A 140 GSM fleece or a 300 GSM single jersey in 40s yarn does not add up. The GSM calculator includes construction estimates that help here.
- Agree the fabric state and tolerance. Write down whether the target is finished fabric or after garment wash, and the tolerance, before bulk production starts.
- Think about the garment. Heavier fabric changes drape, sewability, shrinkage behaviour and cost. A move from 160 to 180 GSM adds about 12% to knit fabric consumption in kilograms.
Typical tolerance#
Tolerance is set by the buyer. For knitted fabrics a band of plus or minus 5% of the target is widely used, and some programs work to plus or minus 3%. For a 180 GSM target, plus or minus 5% means 171 to 189 GSM. Use the figure in your fabric specification, and measure it the way fabric GSM testing describes.
Quick conversions#
| GSM | oz/yd² | GSM | oz/yd² |
|---|---|---|---|
| 120 | 3.54 | 240 | 7.08 |
| 150 | 4.42 | 280 | 8.26 |
| 160 | 4.72 | 320 | 9.44 |
| 180 | 5.31 | 360 | 10.62 |
| 200 | 5.90 | 400 | 11.80 |
| 220 | 6.49 | 440 | 12.98 |
Related guides#
- Single jersey fabric: the most common knit behind the lighter weights in this chart.
- Fleece fabric: the heavy end of the knit range, used for hoodies and sweatshirts.
- Different types of fabric for dresses and clothing: how weight fits together with fiber and construction when choosing a fabric.