French terry is a weft-knitted fabric with a smooth jersey face and a back covered in soft, uncut loops. It is made by knitting a face yarn in a jersey structure while a second yarn, the loop or back yarn, is tied into the fabric at intervals and left as loops on the back. It is the fabric behind many lighter sweatshirts, joggers, hoodies and casual shorts.
Structure in plain terms#
- Face: looks like single jersey.
- Back: rows of small loops formed by the back yarn.
- The back yarn is usually coarser than the face yarn and gives the fabric its bulk.
Knitters describe these fabrics by the number of yarn systems used in each repeat (two-thread and three-thread constructions are common for looped-back and fleece fabrics).
French terry vs fleece#
| French terry | Fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Back | Loops left as they are | Loops brushed (napped) to raise fibers |
| Feel | Soft, lighter, drier | Fluffy, warmer |
| Warmth | Moderate | Higher: brushed fibers trap air |
| Typical GSM | About 240 to 330 | About 260 to 400 |
| Pilling risk on back | Lower | Higher, because fibers are raised |
Many fleece fabrics start as a looped-back structure and become fleece when the back is brushed. See fleece fabric.
Properties#
- Comfortable and absorbent (in cotton-rich blends).
- Moderate stretch, mostly in width; elastane versions stretch more.
- Heavier and bulkier than jersey, so seams and hems add thickness.
Production concerns#
Shrinkage#
Looped-back fabrics can shrink significantly if not stabilised in finishing, especially in length. Test before cutting and compensate patterns where needed. See fabric shrinkage.
Loop snagging and pulled loops#
Rough handling, sharp edges on tables and trolleys, and velcro contact can pull loops. Check packing and handling.
Pilling#
The face can pill if the yarn is weak or hairy; test on the finished fabric. See pilling testing.
Sewing#
- Use needles and threads suited to the fabric weight.
- Overlock seams and coverstitch hems are standard.
- Check seam bulk at crossings (hood to neck, cuffs to sleeves).
Consumption and costing#
French terry is bought by weight. Use its finished GSM in consumption calculations, and cost rib cuffs and waistbands separately. The hoodie consumption calculator separates body fabric and rib.
Specifying French terry#
- Composition of face and loop yarns
- Finished GSM and width
- Loop side up or face side up for garment use
- Shrinkage limits
- Pilling and colorfastness requirements
- Finish (enzyme, silicone softener)
Choosing the right face#
French terry is normally used with the smooth jersey face outside and the loops inside, against the skin. Some fashion styles use the looped side outside for texture. Decide this at development and write it on the tech pack, because:
- Loops outside snag more easily in wear and in packing.
- Prints and embroidery are usually placed on the smooth face.
- Shade can look different on the two sides.
Checking French terry at fabric inspection#
| Check | Why |
|---|---|
| GSM and width | Consumption and costing depend on it |
| Loop evenness across width | Uneven loops show as streaks after dyeing |
| Pulled or broken loops | Handling damage on rolls |
| Shade side to center to side | Long dye liquor paths can cause shade variation |
| Shrinkage after wash test | Length shrinkage is the usual risk |
Related guides#
- Single jersey fabric: the plain jersey face that French terry shares.
- Different types of knit fabrics: the full family of looped, brushed and double knit fabrics.
Frequently asked questions#
Is French terry the same as loopback? Yes, "loopback" and "looped-back jersey" are common names for the same family of fabrics.
Can French terry be brushed later? Yes. Brushing the loops turns it into a fleece fabric, which is warmer but more prone to pilling and shedding.
Why do joggers in French terry lose shape at the knee? Low recovery. Adding elastane or choosing a tighter construction reduces bagging. See stretch and recovery.