Topic
Weft knitted structures, machines and fabric behaviour.
8 notes
A practical guide to the main types of knit fabrics: weft knits such as single jersey, rib, interlock, pique, French terry and fleece, and warp knits such as tricot, powernet and mesh. How each is made, typical weights, properties and the garments they suit.
Fleece is a knitted fabric with a brushed, raised back. How cotton-rich sweatshirt fleece and polyester polar fleece are made, typical weights, the problems fleece brings (pilling, shedding, shrinkage) and how to specify it.
French terry is a knitted fabric with a smooth face and soft loops on the back. How it is made, how it differs from fleece, typical weights, and what to watch for in shrinkage, pilling and sewing.
Interlock is a double-knit made of two interlocked 1x1 ribs. Why it is smooth on both faces, more stable than jersey or rib, where it is used, and how it behaves in cutting, sewing and finishing.
Pique is a textured weft knit made by adding tuck stitches to a jersey base. What gives it the honeycomb surface, single and double pique, its properties, and the problems to watch in polo shirt production.
Rib is a double-knit structure with wales on both faces. Why it stretches and recovers so well, the difference between 1x1 and 2x2 rib, how rib is used for cuffs, collars and fitted tops, and how to specify and cut it.
Single jersey is the basic weft-knit fabric behind most T-shirts. How it is made, the settings that control its weight and shrinkage, its typical problems (curling, spirality, laddering) and how to specify it.
Spirality makes wales slant and side seams twist around T-shirts after washing. Why single knits twist, how spirality is measured, the main causes in yarn, knitting and finishing, and how to reduce it.