Rib is a weft-knitted fabric in which wales of face loops alternate with wales of back loops. It is knitted on machines with two sets of needles (a cylinder and a dial on circular machines, or two needle beds on flat machines). The alternating wales pull towards each other, which gives rib its characteristic ridged look and its strong widthwise stretch and recovery.
1x1, 2x2 and other ribs#
The numbers describe how many face wales alternate with how many back wales:
| Rib | Pattern | Character |
|---|---|---|
| 1x1 | One face wale, one back wale | Fine, even; the most common rib |
| 2x2 | Two face wales, two back wales | Bolder ridges; very elastic |
| 3x1, 5x2 and others | Unequal widths | Decorative ribs, some tops and knitwear |
| Lycra rib | Any rib with elastane | Stronger recovery; fitted garments |
Properties#
- High widthwise stretch and recovery: rib contracts in width when relaxed and extends a long way under load.
- Lies flat: because both faces carry loops, rib does not curl at the edges like single jersey.
- Same look on both faces for balanced ribs such as 1x1.
- Heavier than single jersey from the same yarn, because it contains more loops per unit area when relaxed.
Relaxed and extended measurements#
Rib width depends heavily on how much it is stretched. Always state which condition a width refers to:
- Relaxed width: the natural width with no tension.
- Extended width: the width under a stated load or stretch.
Cuff and collar patterns are cut and sewn to specific stretch ratios. Measuring rib in the wrong state is a common source of garment measurement problems.
Uses in garments#
| Use | Why rib |
|---|---|
| Neck rib on T-shirts | Stretches over the head, recovers to lie flat |
| Cuffs and waistbands on sweatshirts and hoodies | Grips the wrist and waist |
| Polo shirt collars and cuffs | Usually flat-knitted rib with finished edges |
| Fitted tops and tank tops | Body-hugging fit |
| Baby wear | Soft, stretchy and comfortable |
For hoodies and sweatshirts, rib is costed separately from the body fabric, because it is a different fabric with its own GSM and price. The hoodie consumption calculator handles this.
Cutting and sewing rib#
- Relax before cutting, like other knits, to avoid shrinking panels.
- Cut rib strips across the wales (so the stretch runs around the wrist or neck) unless the design says otherwise.
- Sew with tension control: the ratio between rib length and garment opening length must follow the pattern, or necklines flare or pucker.
- Use extensible seams (overlock, coverstitch) that stretch with the rib.
Specifying rib#
- Rib type (1x1, 2x2, lycra rib)
- Composition and yarn count
- GSM, stating relaxed condition
- Width: relaxed and, where relevant, extended
- Color match to the body fabric, from the same dye lot where possible
- Shrinkage and recovery requirements
Rib often comes from a different dye lot or supplier than the body fabric, so check shade against the body before cutting.
Compare rib with single jersey and interlock, and read stretch and recovery for how elasticity is measured.
Related guides#
- Fabric GSM chart: typical rib weights next to jersey and interlock.
- Different types of knit fabrics: the double knit family that rib belongs to.
- Knit fabric consumption: costing rib cuffs and waistbands separately from the body fabric.
Frequently asked questions#
Why does rib look narrow on the roll? Rib contracts strongly in width when relaxed. The roll width is not the working width. Agree measurements in the relaxed or extended state.
Can rib be used as a body fabric? Yes. Lycra rib and fine 1x1 rib are common for fitted T-shirts, tank tops and baby wear.