Pique (from the French word for quilted) is a knitted fabric with a textured, raised surface that looks like small cells or a honeycomb. In knitting, the texture comes from tuck stitches: at certain needles, the yarn is held in the needle hook without being knitted through, then knitted together with the next course's loop. The tucks pull the fabric into a regular pattern of raised and recessed areas.
Single and double pique#
Pique names vary between mills and regions, but two structures are common:
| Name | Structure | Look |
|---|---|---|
| Single pique (single lacoste) | Tuck stitches in alternate courses | Fine, regular texture |
| Double pique (double lacoste) | Tucks in two consecutive courses | Deeper, more pronounced texture |
Always confirm the actual structure with a sample, because the same trade name can mean slightly different constructions from different knitters.
Properties#
- Textured, breathable surface: the cells hold the fabric slightly away from the skin.
- More stable than plain jersey, with less widthwise stretch.
- Heavier than jersey of the same yarn: typical polo shirt pique is around 180 to 240 GSM.
- Different face and back: the textured side is usually the face.
Why polo shirts use it#
The texture hides small irregularities, stays crisp through washing, allows air movement in warm weather and gives the polo its familiar look. Collars and cuffs are usually flat-knitted rib, made to match the body color.
Production concerns#
Shrinkage and width#
Tuck structures can relax and shrink noticeably in width and length if finishing does not stabilise them. Test shrinkage on bulk fabric before cutting. See fabric shrinkage.
Spirality#
Pique has less tendency to twist than plain jersey, but it is still a single-knit structure and can show spirality with lively yarns.
Collar and cuff matching#
Flat-knit collars and cuffs are often dyed separately. Match shade and check that collar measurements after washing suit the neckline.
Sewing#
Use ball point needles and avoid stretching at the placket and neckline. The textured surface can hide sewing defects at a glance; inspect seams carefully.
Specifying pique#
- Structure (single or double pique, or the knitter's reference)
- Composition and yarn count
- Finished GSM and width
- Shrinkage limits in length and width
- Spirality limit
- Collar and cuff specification, shade match
Compare with single jersey and interlock.
Pique compared with other polo fabrics#
Polo shirts are also made in single jersey and interlock. The choice changes the look, the cost and the risks:
| Fabric | Look | Typical weight | Main risk |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single pique | Fine cellular texture | Light to medium | Width shrinkage |
| Double pique | Bolder texture, more body | Medium to heavy | Weight and cost; shrinkage |
| Interlock | Smooth, both sides alike | Medium | Pilling on some blends |
| Single jersey | Smooth face, soft | Light | Spirality and curling |
Checking pique before cutting#
- Weigh a cut sample to confirm GSM. Tuck structures make the construction GSM estimate less reliable.
- Run a shrinkage test on bulk fabric and compare length and width results with the buyer's limit. See the shrinkage calculator.
- Check the face side is used consistently on all panels. Mixing face and back gives visible shade and texture differences.
- Compare collars and cuffs with the body under the buyer's light source.
Related guides#
- Spirality in knitted fabric: why pique, as a single knit, can still twist with lively yarns.
- Different types of knit fabrics: how pique relates to jersey, rib and interlock.
- List of top clothing brands in the world: the brands that made the pique polo shirt a classic.
Frequently asked questions#
Is pique the same as lacoste? In many markets, "lacoste" is used as a trade term for pique structures. Always confirm the construction with a physical sample.
Why does pique feel heavier than jersey at the same count? Tuck stitches hold extra yarn in the structure, so there is more yarn per square meter.
Can pique be printed? Yes, but the textured surface can break up fine print detail. Test the print on the actual fabric.