Library
Practical explanations with formulas, worked examples and troubleshooting steps. Browse by knowledge area or read the newest first.
A practical guide to the main types of knit fabrics: weft knits such as single jersey, rib, interlock, pique, French terry and fleece, and warp knits such as tricot, powernet and mesh. How each is made, typical weights, properties and the garments they suit.
FOB price is what the buyer pays for goods delivered on board at the port of shipment. What FOB includes and excludes, how to build an FOB price from fabric, trims, CM and overheads, a worked example, and how FOB compares with other shipping terms.
How to analyse a woven fabric sample: count ends and picks per inch, identify the weave, find warp and weft counts from yarn removed from the fabric, measure crimp and GSM, and write the construction in standard form.
How to calculate fabric consumption for knit garments (by weight, from panel areas and GSM) and woven garments (by length, from the marker), with worked examples, wastage allowances and the mistakes that cause fabric shortages.
A practical guide to common woven and knitted fabric defects: yarn defects, weaving and knitting defects, dyeing and finishing defects, and dimensional problems. What each looks like, where it comes from and how it is detected.
A practical reference of typical GSM ranges for knitted and woven apparel fabrics, what moves a fabric up or down the range, and how to use the chart when reviewing a specification.
GSM is the weight of one square meter of fabric in grams. Learn how to measure it with a round cutter, calculate it from any sample size, estimate it from construction, and control it in production.
How a fabric shrinkage (dimensional stability) test is done: specimen size and benchmarks, conditioning, wash and dry procedures, the shrinkage formula with worked examples, in-house checks versus lab tests, and how to read and act on the report.
Why woven and knitted fabrics shrink, how shrinkage is measured and calculated, typical causes in knitting, weaving and finishing, and how factories control shrinkage through relaxation, compaction and pattern allowance.
Spreading lays fabric in plies ready for cutting. The spreading mode, tension, alignment, splicing and shade control decide whether cut panels are accurate and matching. A practical guide for cutting rooms.
An overview of fabric testing for apparel: what each group of tests measures, how the main methods work (including Martindale abrasion, air permeability and UPF), which ISO, ASTM and AATCC standards are used, how to build a test program by product, and how to read a test report.
A final (pre-shipment) inspection checks a finished, packed lot against the buyer's requirements before it ships. What is checked, how samples are drawn, the order of work, and how to prepare so the lot passes the first time.
Fleece is a knitted fabric with a brushed, raised back. How cotton-rich sweatshirt fleece and polyester polar fleece are made, typical weights, the problems fleece brings (pilling, shedding, shrinkage) and how to specify it.
French terry is a knitted fabric with a smooth face and soft loops on the back. How it is made, how it differs from fleece, typical weights, and what to watch for in shrinkage, pilling and sewing.
What GOTS certification requires across the supply chain, the difference between the organic and made-with-organic label grades, scope and transaction certificates, and what a garment factory must do to stay compliant.
How to convert fabric weight between grams per square meter and ounces per square yard, where the 33.906 factor comes from, and why linear weight is a different number.
A garment cost sheet adds fabric, trims, cost of making, processes, testing, commercial costs and profit to reach a price. This guide walks through each element with a worked T-shirt example and the checks that stop losses.
How to calculate sewing capacity in available minutes and in pieces, for a line or a whole factory, and how to use it to check whether an order fits. Includes efficiency, absenteeism, working days and a full worked example.